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via College Gloss |
Fashion bloggers are not journalists. There, I said it. But there are no absolutes, and I have qualifiers to add.
The battle between editors and bloggers has been raging for years as to legitimacy of online media as a viable news source. With major news stories being broken on Twitter, and newspapers moving online, it's pretty clear that news, if published online, is still news.
The truth is, the two terms are not exclusive. There are journalists who blog and adhere to all expected standards of ethics when publishing online, and there are bloggers who approach their work as journalists, doing their best to ensure that they work to earn their credibility in a digital space.
But let's talk fashion for a moment.
Fashion journalism exists. Robin Givhan and the Pulitzer Prize committee have made that a moot point of discussion. But are fashion bloggers fashion journalists? To that, I say no. Givhan won her Pulitzer in CRITICISM, and that is the point I'm trying to make.
Fashion bloggers have had to fight for their right to be recognized as force to be reckoned with. By democratizing fashion, fashion bloggers have been able to give a voice to the men and women who have always been the biggest consumers of that fashion, and allow them to help dictate the pace and direction in which trends move, rather than be dictated to, as in season past. This is awesome.
But they're fighting the wrong battle. Bloggers are not journalists. They are critics. A journalist/reporter is a person who objectively reports on news. A blogger is person who writes a blog. This is why opinion pieces and editorials are clearly identified as such in a newspaper. It's not the same thing, and bloggers should stop trying to pretend it is.
As bloggers, we provide our opinions. We make value judgement based on our preferences or experiences. Nothing about fashion blogging is objective, and objectivity is what defines hard journalism. Fashion blogging very simply doesn't fall into that category, because most fashion blogging is not fashion reporting.
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via Jr Deputy Accountant |
To make matters worse, fashion blogging has been inundated by advertising and sponsored posts, immediately calling into question the credibility of the content. Bloggers who used to be sincere and genuine, are now shrewd and concerned only with the freebies they can score. They've become all about the bragging and the minor internet celebrity, and it shows. There is a reason that journalists do not pay sources for news, and why media houses generally have very strict rules against accepting freebies or favours. No matter how objective you think you're being, transactions like that always colour the content of a post because they create a sense of obligation in the blogger. In order to be considered objective, a blogger should be beholden only to herself. (Or himself, naturally)
It is out of this attitude that sites like GOMI are born. Readers can tell when a fashion blogger has crossed over to the dark side, and it's that lack of self awareness that leads to the inevitable decline in quality of once popular blogs.
This may be an unpopular opinion, but fashion bloggers should NEVER have started accepting advertisers or sponsorships or freebies if they wanted to be taken seriously. The "great blogging revolution" presented bloggers as the gatekeepers of the fashion industry if you will, keeping designers and editors cognizant of the market they were serving, and reminding them who their customers actually were. But how can you claim to serve in that role if you're in bed with those same companies?
And this isn't to say that fashion blogging is inherently dishonest. It isn't. But if I know you are being paid to talk about a company or product, I immediately assume everything you have to say is inauthentic and fabricated. It is a large part of the reason why (with the exception of a select few) I have largely stopped reading fashion blogs. I want more reporting on trends and FASHION and less open disdain for readers and navel-gazing.
It's been YEARS, and there is still not concrete demonstration of the tangible ROI that blogs can provide. I have a very particular disdain for bloggers who are more about being seen than actually contributing to the conversation. You got invited to NYFW? Lucky you. I'm excited to hear your interpretation of the collections you saw. Oh wait, you only posted about what you wore and who you rubbed shoulders with? Not interested. Not even remotely. And the fact that this seems to be the prevailing attitude of the fashion bloggers of the moment is terrifying.
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via Woogs World |
Suzy Menkes' bitter takedown of the street style parade outside each fashion week demonstrates that patience for this "peacock" type is waning. The thing is, everyone is entitled to an opinion, (hence the popularity of personal blogs), but some opinions are more valuable than others. This is simply fact. I'm sorry if this offends, but the ability to dress yourself and not look silly is a skill most of us acquire by the time we hit 11 or 12. It does not in any way make us qualified to wax poetic about the professional aesthetic of designers who have suffered and slaved over their craft for longer than you knew what peplum was.
This obviously doesn't mean that a blogger cannot be informed. Take Tavi Gevinson or Susie Bubble or even Leandra Medine. Dedication to any craft will reap well deserved rewards. But a trend I've noticed that no one else seems to have picked up on is that the most successful bloggers parlay their blogging acumen into other careers. From Leandra's styling gigs, to Tavi's online magazine Rookie, the best bloggers use their success to do other things. The blogging bubble is set to burst very soon as more companies realize that there is little to no benefit that can be garnered from partnering with bloggers. Though a select few bloggers have accomplished it, it's unreasonable to believe that thousands upon thousands of bloggers can make a living solely off what amounts to the kind-hearted charity of a finite number of fashion companies. You need to get a real job. One that rewards the actual skills that bloggers have: their writing and their voice. That shit you can take that anywhere, independent of page views.
The truth is, over the years, bloggers have managed to degrade the little credibility that they managed to gain, and it's entirely possible they'll never get it back. It's something that I've been noticing for close to a year and have wanted to talk about for a while. It is infuriating to see fashion blogs and "personal style diaries" pop up overnight, virtual carbon copies of the one who came before, be showered with freebies simply for existing, or having the money to buy designer. It shows no passion or dedication to fashion, and it undermines the bloggers who are working so hard to hone their writing and their voice, and genuinely demonstrate their interest in participating in an industry that has often been inaccessible to most.
Perhaps I'm simply too old and crotchety to "get it". (Get off my lawn!) But I've fallen out of love with a medium that used to bring me a lot of joy, and there's nothing I can do to fix it. These thing happen I guess?
What about you? Do you think fashion bloggers are journalists or not?
Do you think fashion bloggers have a credibility problem?
And if so, how do you they can start fixing it?
Where do you stand on bloggers accepting freebies?
Let me know in the comments below!
So obsessed with your blog.
ReplyDeleteThe insane amount of thoughts you put into subjects like this is what gives me such an immense respect for you and your writing.
I'm conflicted on this whole issue. Initially, I took extreme offense to Suzy's article. The idea of maintaining exclusivity simply for the sake of being exclusive is obnoxious and pretentious and mean. It's like the mean girls in high school all over again.
Your argument, however, brings up a different point. Your'e completely right - fashion bloggers are not (usually) journalists, and your description of them as "critics" is perfect. I'd never thought of it that way, but it's true. Instead of analyzing or reporting, they typically just reflect. And narcissistically so. Very little concern is given for the bigger picture.
Fashion bloggers do have a credibility problem, you're right, but I think that's what makes them bloggers and not journalists. As long as the distinction stands, and people don't mascarade around as something that they're not, then whatever. Let them flaunt their Volcom girl "swag" (puke) and ugly LuLus.com dresses.
The biggest issue I have is with bloggers who somehow think that they're entitled to the materials they get, that they've done something outrageously original, and then treat everyone else around them like lesser beings. If real criticism is to exist, it can't be done in a pretentious little bubble. It has to be, like Leandra has realized, a community experience. I disagree with Suzy fully on that one. I don't think fashion has to remain exclusive. I think it might, but I don't think it SHOULD. There's no benefit in that.
I am a professional magazine editor. I also have a style blog. No, I do not consider my style blog hard journalism. It's just not.
ReplyDeleteNot only did I have to go to journalism school to start my career whereas bloggers do not, but there are standards I have to adhere to for each publication I write for. When it comes to blogging, it is all self-regulation. So while some bloggers treat their outlet like a publication, others wax on about how cute their new outfit is. There are way too many types of bloggers to ever be able to categorize them into one particular thing. Some act like journos but some most definitely do not.
Regarding sponsorships, I've found myself entangled in this web convo today and ended up writing a post about it. I think oftentimes, yes, it can be abused but doesn't have to be a necessary "evil". The fact is, magazines have advertisers that pay writers and since blogs are self-sustaining, they need money (ads) too. Design, photography, hosting fees, not to mention, time, does not come free and many people cannot sustain a blog on their own personal funds and create the content their audience wants, just on their dime. I agree that I get turned off by blogs that have "sold out" in every one of their posts; but isn't it unrealistic for me to expect you to dump hours of your life taking photos, editing, writing, editing again and creating these amazing blog posts for me...for free? You can't charge readers and you can't get advertisers so really, it ends up being a bit of a lose-lose situation.
I approach sponsorships and advertisers and PR pitches the same way I treat all PR pitches that come my way for magazines; if it's a fit, let's work together. If it's not, it doesn't matter what your payment is. It's great to support local businesses and it's great to show readers new cool things and that, in my opinion, is a win-win situation.
Here's the post:
http://stylesizzle.com/lifestyle/word-sponsors
You too right. I can't have said it better myself. I guess you just have to find more likeminded souls and ignore the rest. Who knows if this will be the major tipping point for fashion blogs (à la Malcolm Gladwell style)? I somehow doubt it though since it's not the first time someone's complained about it and I have yet to witness any fundamental change in the fashion blogging "industry".
ReplyDeleteI highly doubt that my blog post will be the one to suddenly make bloggers realize that they've been fighting the wrong battle all along, but if it makes even one fashion blogger understand that they need to be working to regain their integrity, then I think I'm good.
ReplyDeleteI highly doubt that my blog post will be the one to suddenly make bloggers realize that they've been fighting the wrong battle all along, but if it makes even one fashion blogger understand that they need to be working to regain their integrity, then I think I'm good.
ReplyDeleteI agree with your take on sponsorships, I just take the opposite approach.
ReplyDeleteIt completely makes sense that all your time and the fees and the little things add up, and that you shouldn't be expected to it for free, but the way I look at it is that I'm blogging for ME, so it's not an expense, it's an investment in my sanity. The main reason I have never taken sponsorships or taken ads is because I don't want to feel obligated to anyone. I want to be able to pack up and disappear at any point without any problems. As it stands, I can do that. But if I have financial commitments attached to my blog, I can't.
Bloggers always talk about catering to your readers, as though you're doing a public service, and I guess sometimes they may be, but I didn't start blogging for readers. I started blogging for me, and readers happened to come. I'm incredibly grateful that they did, but they came to hear what I have to say, not what I think they want to hear. To me, readers are a benefit, not the be all and end all. I guess it depends where your priorities are.
Thank you for a well written and thought provoking post. I do think though that I agree with the comment made by Kevin Ram below questioning whether journalists from established media houses necessarily follow the highest journalistic principles. I assume the fashion journalists you refer to in your post are bona fide fashion critics such as Cathy Horyn and Susy Menkes - yes fashion journalism of that ilk probably does have to follow very high standards. But as a voracious reader of fashion press I have to say that a lot of what constitutes fashion journalism (at least in the UK) doesn't measure up and some well written blogs are a far better read. A lot of the bread and butter of fashion journalism seems focused on hyping the latest trend or whoever is paying the most for advertising space rather than providing impartial critique on design.
ReplyDeleteAnd as a blogger I have had text lifted verbatim from a blog post I wrote and passed off by a senior sub editor of the online fashion section of a major internation newspaper as her own work, blatant copyright theft that I could have sued for (I had lawyers advise I could have but it was too costly to pursue). So high journalistic principles? Fashion blog content being so different from fashion journalistic content? I'm not so sure. I wouldn't have journos coming to pinch writing from my blog if that was really the case.
Well for one thing, I'm SO sorry you were plagarized. I had a website lift one of my posts without permission just the other day and I was livid. And they actually linked back to the source, so they weren't trying to do harm. But nothing sucks more than having your work turn up someplace you didn't authorize it to be. I'm so sorry that happened.
ReplyDeleteBut with regards to bloggers not being too far off from journalists, I don't necessarily disagree. There are definitely some bloggers who take their work seriously, and journalistic standards or no, or focused on living up to the mission statements of their blogs and being honest with their readers. Where is disagree is that this is the norm. I think that less than 15% of bloggers fall into that category and that's the problem. All fashion bloggers are harping to be taken seriously, when only 15% of them should be.
'That's my personal take on the situation. In any case, thank you so much for stopping by and commenting. I hope you find other posts you like and you stick around for a bit! :)